The Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023 season has officially come to a close, but this season’s offering opened minds to an array of emerging trends we can expect to see in the future.
The Italian fashion capital welcomed some of the biggest names in fashion to showcase their latest collections to industry leaders, international creatives, and more. In addition, dozens of century-old imprints crafted their own interpretations of luxury, from Gucci’s House homage to Ferragamo’s tailoring masterclass.
This season, Milanese designers chose to push traditional boundaries with genre-defying looks instructed by a fresh rulebook. Several trends hopped from runway to runway, seeing outlandish furry footwear at GCDS, while Gucci delivered animalistic variations of its classic leather sandals. Reimagined officewear dominated nearly every showcase, supplied shredded by MM6 Maison Margiela and fastened with endless zippers by Tokyo James.
For FW23, fur ensembles proved to be a staple and walked the runway in delicate green tones at Jil Sander’s futuristic showcase and teddy bear versions at Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta. Meanwhile, motorsports inspired many, including Ferrari, who defined its own luxurious universe.
Read on to discover Hypebeast’s round-up of the biggest trends at Milan Fashion Week FW23.
Officecore Looks To Business
As the Covid-19 pandemic withers away and WFH regulations ease, global workforces have prepared to relaunch the in-office canon. As a result, workers everywhere, from New York’s Wall Street lawyers to London’s creative change-makers, have returned to routine office activities for good. Symbolizing a new dawn, the officecore trend is at an all-time high, establishing its dominance at several shows at Milan Fashion Week.
As one of the week’s most anticipated shows, Bottega Veneta focused on upgraded tailoring and commanding proportions that previewed the brand’s pivot into the future. Perfectly-sectioned pinstriped coats were matched with patterned shirting and leather neckties, while ostrich leather ensembles redefined the traditional office uniform with a contemporary outlook.
At Ferragamo, asymmetrical suiting boasted slashed indentations to reveal a second layer beneath, while wool versions boasted checkered decorations matched with ultra-short bottoms and removable hoods. In addition, Ferrari offered a distinct approach, previewing racing-inspired fits with quilted accents and nylon coats that fastened at the waist. Finally, Raf Simons’ Prada previewed staple suede blazers and formal skirts adorned with paper-like florals in neutral tones.
All Fur Everything
As fashion moves into a more sustainable realm, designers are following suit with faux interpretations of animal furs that mimic the real thing. Cozy maines proved a seasonal focal point, lining metallic outerwear at SUNNEI and embracing discolored styles at Gucci.
While the latter looked into its archive for inspiration, the dynamic design crew supplied billowing long-sleeve dresses in vibrant blue fur, hair-encrusted evening gowns, and an assortment of elegant coats outlined in tinted animal coatings. In addition, GCDS framed suede jackets with tonal sherpa while manipulating the material to create moss-like compositions that clung to models as vests next to mythical floor-length coats from another land.
Motorsport Looks are in Their Own Lane
During the FW23 season, designers far and wide embraced the adrenaline rush that comes with motorsports. From motocross to racing, Milan Fashion Week welcomed the unknown by delivering garments with a definite edge.
Jil Sander supplied fashion fans with a futuristic offering dominated by sleek leather looks, many featuring fearless co-ords with embossed branding and complementary gloves. Elsewhere, fruit-printed sets were matched with lengthy accessories and protective balaclavas for a shielding layer while in motion. Ferrari delivered down-filled variations of classic sporty silhouettes, while Ferragamo took a route down elevated leather pairings with red underscores and race-ready nylon units.
Designers Go Back to Their Roots
Milan Fashion Week acts as a stage for the world’s most prominent designers to deliver outlandish creations, and FW23 proved to be an emotional season for all. Brands, creative directors, and designers worked together to pay tribute to their native House codes by taking an excursion to the past.
For Maximilian Davis’ sophomore collection with Ferragamo, the designer strengthened Florentine Maison’s connection with old Hollywood by returning to the brand’s primetime in the 1950s. By doing so, Davis revisited to signature brand styles and gave them a new life through modern redesigns. Casual looks and sporty detailing were kept at the forefront, while bright accents and oversized bags echoed Ferragamo’s future outlook.
On the other hand, Gucci’s in-house design team presented their second collection after the departure of Alessandro Michele — the last one ahead of Sabato De Sarno‘s debut in September. Alongside dozens of creatives that have been with the brand for decades, the crew chose to revitalize the classic Gucci uniform taken from past collections and reflected on their journey thus far to begin a new chapter. While honoring their creative process, the team delivered relaxed suiting, historic party dresses, and ancient fur outfits that defined the range.
Take a closer look at Milan Fashion Week’s top FW23 trends above.
Elsewhere, Nicholas Daley FW23 “Roots to Rebel” is an ode to post-war Britain.